FISH “EN PAPILLOTE”
A small whole fish—dressed, opened, and filleted—is particularly suitable for a “papillote” preparation, a little piscine package of parchment paper roasted with flavorings for a few minutes, then opened at the plate for both heady steam and tasty treat. This recipe uses red trout; also workable re any number of other similar fish such as Arctic charr, smaller bass, river trout, and the like.
RECIPE: Red Trout Filet “en papillote”
Makes 1, easily multiplied.
Ingredients
1 large square parchment paper
6-8 ounce filet of red trout, dressed
3 very thin slices lemon, seeded
1 sprig fresh thyme
Pinch each of fine sea salt and freshly ground white or black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Directions
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Fold in half the parchment paper, then open it back up and lay it seam side down. Fold the trout against itself, so that the flesh sides are both out. Along one side of the seam, place the lemon slices, then the folded fish filet, the thyme, salt and pepper, and the butter.
Fold the paper back over itself, then seal it into a package, folding forward and crimping the long edges, so that it resembles a big #10 envelope, then tucking under the end edges to make a leakproof packet. Place on a rimmed baking sheet, seam side facing up and the ends tucked under, and roast for 12 minutes.
If you wish to add a small amount of any vegetable to the packet while you assemble it (such as baby spinach, julienned leeks or carrots, thin asparagus, or cherry tomatoes), do so of course, but add 2-3 minutes cooking time.
Serve by slicing open the top of the papillote with a sharp, thin knife and squeezing the sides and ends of of the packet into the center, as if with a baked potato that you are readying for some toppings.
Wine Pairings and Whys: This fish preparation is pretty straightforward and uncomplicated by any fruit or vegetable salsa, say, or rich creamy sauce. As a consequence, it allows for a wide range of wine partners, from light whites all the way through the less forceful reds. So, a tricouleur of recommendations for this dish. If you use mild white fish such as cod or tilapia, opt for the white or pink; if salmon or oilier fish, the red will suit admirably. Avoid tannic, heavy reds more comfortable around red meats and heavier, grilled foods. But you knew that. For whites, an Alsace Riesling would be admirable, or any solidly tangy, light-bodied white from a cool climate such as Northern Italy, parts of our Western Coast, or Southern Australia. For pink wines, a Provence rosé, of course, or any dry rosé from any cool climate district. On the red wine side, choose something light-bodied, such as a Rioja Crianza or one of the Chianti offshoots such as Rúfina.