VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN

CABBAGE BRAISED WITH APPLES

The ancient Romans and those living in Europe into the Middle Ages treated (furthermore, named) the apple as a “vegetable,” cooking it alongside various meats, especially pork and game, or serving cooked and oft-elaborately-spiced apples as its own course, alongside cooked root and green vegetables.

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VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN

RED CABBAGE SALAD WITH APPLES

About cooking red cabbage, keep in mind that any red in it quickly turns to mauve on long cooking, then a slate blue, finally an unappetizing dirty green. However, cooking or preparing red cabbage with an acid (vinegar, for example, or wine, or citrus juice) preserves the red color.

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VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN

CREAMED SPINACH QUEEN MARY 2

On a voyage back from Europe to the United States aboard the Queen Mary 2, I tasted this creamed spinach in its steak restaurant. It’s delicious; you could eat it for dessert, it’s so rich and filling. I think the dual secrets are squeezing the spinach of excess water after it has been blanched and thickening the cream. 

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MEAT, VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN MEAT, VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN

PASTEL DE CHOCLO

Pastel de choclo is what we would call a layered casserole or a sort of shepherd’s pie, consisting of a topping of a sweet corn polenta over a savory ground beef filling, separated by and further flavored with a vein of chopped hard-boiled eggs, golden raisins, and sliced olives. When skillfully assembled, with the best ingredients, its simplicity is irresistible.

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MEAT, PORK, BEANS/RICE/GRAIN WILLIAM STJOHN MEAT, PORK, BEANS/RICE/GRAIN WILLIAM STJOHN

COOL VIETNAMESE NOODLES

Keeping it cool, here’s a recipe for one of the more delicious “salads” the world offers, what the Vietnamese generically call “bun,” pronounced “boon” (written more exactly, “bún thit nuóng”). It’s much more than a salad, actually, and in its variations—only one such is given here—easily can stand for the main meal of the day. 

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BEANS/RICE/GRAIN, BREAKFAST WILLIAM STJOHN BEANS/RICE/GRAIN, BREAKFAST WILLIAM STJOHN

FRENCH TOAST

What we call “French toast” may well be one of the oldest recipes in our culture. A collection of recipes called “De Re Coquinaria” (“The Art of Cooking”), dating from the 4th or 5th century, calls for dipping stale bread in milk and frying it. And we’re off.

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BEANS/RICE/GRAIN WILLIAM STJOHN BEANS/RICE/GRAIN WILLIAM STJOHN

HOMEMADE HUMMUS

I used to say to myself “Why bother?” Sherlocking the sesame seed paste called tahini (that isn’t really rare to find anymore), pulling out and slopping up the food processor to grind a couple cans of chickpeas, peeling some garlic and squeezing some lemons to make hummus at home when I could find tubs of it—flavored in as many nights as are in Arabia—for $3-$4 on sale. Until I made my own.

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VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN

MOUSSELINE

The French word “mousseline” is used in a couple of culinary ways: it’s a mousse; it’s a sauce (a variation of hollandaise), but its original meaning is “muslin,” a fine weave of soft cotton. Making a mousseline in the kitchen turns anything into something that your tongue is happy to touch. Photo from Elena Leya on unsplash.

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MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN

BEEF STEAK IN THE TUSCAN STYLE

"Tuscan style" means that the steak "sauce" is fruity extra virgin olive oil. Further, in true Tuscan style, serve the steak with a salad of dressed mixed greens garnished with flat-leaf parsley leaves. 

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PORK, MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN PORK, MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN

POLISH BREADED PORK CUTLETS

Cutlets are a great way to have something versatile to eat, in various seasons, and that often use cuts of meat that are difficult to prepare in other ways. The difficulty is plain: because cutlets are very lean meat, they’re easily overcooked.

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VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN VEGETABLE/FRUIT WILLIAM STJOHN

GAZPACHO AMARILLO

This gazpacho is more a drink than a soup and is served that way in its place of origin, Sevilla, Spain. Unlike many gazpachos, this recipe uses no bread, a solid amount of Spanish extra virgin olive oil, and yellow tomatoes, not red.

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