RED WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN RED WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN

SYRAH SHIRAZ

Cool climate syrah smells, tastes, even feels different as a wine than that from warmer vineyard areas. And wine tasters, once they put them side by side (in place or memory), might well prefer one to the other precisely for these differences. Most of these differences are accounted for by how syrah ripens, a function of climate if ever there was one. Photo from Al Elmes on unsplash

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WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN

HOW TOS WITH WINE

How to save the wine in a half-filled bottle from spoiling, open a bottle without a corkscrew, remove the last half of a broken cork, and serve wine at the proper temperature.

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RED WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN RED WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN

CARMÉNÈRE

You may taste many things in a sip of red wine: a panoply of fruit flavors, earth or minerals, spicy wood, even the cleansing astringency of tannin. In a wine made from carménère, a red grape born in France but that has flowered of late in Chile, you also will taste mystery. Illustration of the Carmenère grape variety by Jules Troncy in the work "Ampelography,” 1901

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WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN

MINERALITY

Time was, not so long ago, that the term du jour in wine talk was “minerality.” It’s still regnant in some tasting circles. It describes the scent or taste (or even aftertaste) of some sort of mineral, stone or rock in a wine. Burgundian Chablis, for example, almost always tastes of chalk; red Priorat, of schist; Mosel riesling, of slate.  

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WHITE WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN WHITE WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN

OFFBEAT WHITES

Know that never before in the history of wine has more and better wine been made all over the globe. If you want the best wine for the best price, go for grape varieties that you’ve never heard of (often from places that you didn’t know made wine). Here’s a too-short list of white wine values, from the grape’s point of view.  

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WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN

HOW TO ATTEND A WINE TASTING

One of the better ways to learn about wine is to taste it, especially by comparing one wine with another or, even better still, with several other wines. The best place and time to do that is at a wine tasting, an event held to showcase a number of wines. 

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RED WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN RED WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN

OFFBEAT REDS

It’s a no-brainer that the combination of best value and highest quality in wine now comes from offbeat winemaking regions and their odd grapes. Here’s a too-short look at that combo in red wine, from the grape’s point of view.  

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WHITE WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN WHITE WINE GRAPES WILLIAM STJOHN

UNOAKED CHARDONNAY

When a chardonnay is “unoaked” or “unwooded,” however, it stands naked in its bottle. Many winemakers choose to fashion such expressions of chardonnay, some by the traditions of their area, others with an eye to letting the grape simply strut its plainspoken stuff. Photo from Manuel Venturini on unsplash.

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PLACES, WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN PLACES, WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN

EUROPE VS USA

“Who makes better wine? Europe or America?” (You sometimes hear the question as “Old World versus New World? Whose wine wins?”) I’d rather frame the issue as “What can we learn from each other in order to make better wine ourselves?” 

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PLACES WILLIAM STJOHN PLACES WILLIAM STJOHN

CHIANTI

Chianti has grown up with us and, like some of us perhaps, gotten better with time. Sixty years ago, though popular, it was not always well made. Today’s Chianti is as good an Italian red as can be. Like any good wine, it resembles the place from which it comes, one of the most comely homes for the vine, the Tuscan countryside. 

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WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN

HOW WINES AGE

The only reason to age any wine is to experience its greater value, whether because it is rarer and more dear (good for investors in wine) or because it has changed “for the better”—gained complexity or softened its tannic grip or developed tertiary aromas and flavors. That doesn’t happen on the mere ride home. 

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PLACES WILLIAM STJOHN PLACES WILLIAM STJOHN

WINES OF VENETO

Each year, the three regions of Sicily, Puglia and Veneto vie for first place as producer of the largest amount of Italian wine. While, in any given year, Veneto may lose that contest to one of its southern kin, it’s no issue to name Italy’s top maker of DOC (or quality-legislated) wine. The winner is always Veneto—producer alone, of Italy’s 20 regions, of one-fifth of all Italian DOC wine. 

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WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN

OAK

While, for millennia, oak functioned to store and carry wine, it’s only in the past 100 years or so that have we cared about what it does to the wine it houses, especially how it both flavors and matures it.

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WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN WINE BASICS WILLIAM STJOHN

TANNIN

You’re familiar with tannin even if you’re not familiar with red wine. They make over-steeped tea bitter and astringent; they’re what scrunch up your tongue if you chew too long on a Popsicle stick or wooden toothpick.  And they are absolutely crucial to grapes growing up successfully on the vine, and to wine both being made and being appreciated, especially over time. 

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