MY DAD'S MASHED POTATOES

My father made the best mashed potatoes, on Thanksgiving or anytime of the year. He bequeathed some tricks, however, that make all the difference. First, use a combination of waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold) and russet potatoes. The russets provide “loft,” but the goldens taste as if butter already had been bred into them in the field.

Second, after they’re done boiling, steam away any residual moisture from them. The potatoes must be dry before both mashing and adding the cream and butter. Any leftover water both dilutes the flavor and makes the mashed potatoes, well, watery.

Third, at the very least, additions of any sort must be room temperature or, better, warmed. (The cream and butter ought be hot.) You won’t get the salt ratio right if the potatoes are cooled down when you mash them and then add seasoning. And fourth, mash them or rice them or push them through a food mill, but don’t food-processer them. The latter is difficult to control (they can get gummy in an instant) and, besides, batching them cools them down.

RECIPE: My Dad’s Mashed Potatoes
6-8 servings

Ingredients
4 pounds potatoes, a 50/50 mix of “waxies” (such as Yukon Golds) and russets

2 sticks unsalted butter

1 cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper

Directions
Peel and cut up the potatoes into same-size chunks. You may retain as much potato skin as you like for flavor, texture or nutrition. Skins-on changes looks only.

In a large pot, cover the potato pieces with 2 tablespoons salt and cold water and bring to a moderate boil. Cook for 15-20 minutes or until a knife easily pierces a chunk.

Meanwhile, in a small pot mix together the cream and butter and slowly melt the butter, not allowing the liquid to boil or foam.

When cooked through, drain the potatoes in a colander or by using the top of the pot cracked just enough to let the water out. Return or keep the potatoes in the pot, without its cover. Place atop a slow fire (or in a heated oven) and let any residual moisture steam away.

Stir the cream and butter mix and add about half of it to the potatoes in their pot. Smash away with a potato masher, adding more of the cream and butter mix until the potatoes are smooth and fluffy but still have some lumps within.

Season to taste with salt and pepper (you may use white pepper for looks). Serve immediately or keep warm in the oven (no more than 250 degrees).