Marsanne

Marsanne’s birthplace is believed to be the town of Marsanne, near Montélimar in the northern Rhône Valley. In the northern Rhône appellations of St.-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and St.-Péray, Marsanne makes the majority of the white wines, although it is often blended with another white grape (equally well-regarded), Roussanne.

Although Marsanne is not one of the few white grapes allowed in either the white or red wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it is one of the eight white grapes permitted in simple Côtes du Rhône blanc.

Marsanne is well-known as a white wine grape in Australia where, although plantings are fewer than 300 acres, it nonetheless represents a full 80% of the globe’s Marsanne. Australian Marsanne is some of the oldest in the world (vines at Château Tahbilk in central Victoria date to 1927) and also some of the longest-lived when made into wine. At 10-12 years of bottle age, Australian Marsanne, in fact, is highly prized (much like Australian Sémillon at the same age).

While the vines are hardy, the grapes hangs in winged, long, compact clusters. This leaves the grapes susceptible bunch rot and powdery mildew. Marsanne tends to be low in acidity, so both must and wine have tendencies to oxidation and browning. If grown in too warm a climate, it makes flabby wine. Too cool, and it has simple, bland flavors.

But grown and vinified just right and Marsanne turns out wines with rich, melon-y flavors, with hints of peaches and citrus. With age, these flavors develop into aromas and tastes of honeysuckle, jasmine, apricot and peach. Its texture is quite viscous and opulent, especially given that the wine often sports low acidity. The finish is nutty (especially with the taste of bitter almond) and long.

Among white grapes, Marsanne has the uncanny ability to uptake mineral tastes from the soils in which it is grown. A well-made Marsanne with have pronounced and delicious flavors of chalk, earth or limestone.

Moreover, due to all these characteristics, Marsanne makes for a superb blending grape. In particular, Rousanne tones down its viscosity, while Viognier uplifts its aromas.

The most famed examples of Marsanne, besides those of Victoria’s Château Tahbilk, are the Ermitage Cuvée l’Orée of Chapoutier, Chave’s Hermitage Vin de Paille, Gaillard’s St.-Joseph Blanc, Guigal’s Hermitage Blanc and Jaboulet’s Crozes-Hermitage Blanc “La Mule Blanche.”

Marsanne is equally good with or without food, and older versions very much can support rich cuisine.