SYRAH SHIRAZ

This blowsy, inky grape goes by the name of Syrah in France (as well as much of the rest of the world), and as Shiraz in Australia, South Africa and by some California winemakers.

The two-fold name is a mystery—is it after Shiraz City in Persia? the Sicilian city of Siracusa?—but even more obscure are the grape’s origins: Via Egypt through Sicily? Planted in the Rhône Valley by a passing crusader or even, as some allege, St. Patrick himself? Or, simply, hundreds of years ago, a mutation of a vine already indigenous to the Rhône?

The latter, say scientists, and probably fathered by the ancient vine Allobrogica, written about by both Pliny the Elder (not the ale) and Julius Caesar.

Syrah’s present notoriety is based, by and large, on its wines made in three places on the globe: along the northern Rhône, throughout much of Australia, and on the Central Coast of California.

But wherever it grows, Syrah turns out wine that is a light shade of black and so exotically perfumed that it might well snap your head back.

Terroir
Syrah does well in a warm climate, but likes neither too much heat nor too little. The vine is quite vigorous and would overcrop if not planted on its preferred regimen of poor, rocky, well-drained soil—although, that said, in Australia it grows everywhere (except hydroponically) and to generally fine effect.

France and California diverge on where Syrah works best. In France, by and large, the weather matters less than finding the right soils and aspect. Contrariwise, the New World seeks the right climate first. Either way, as with all red wine grapes these days, the best wine from Syrah is a result of low yields, controlled fermentations and the judicious use of oak (sometimes, none at all).

France
The greatest of French Syrah comes from the northern Rhône—Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, St-Joseph, Cornas and Crozes-Hermitage. Like Burgundy, these villages give distinctive character to the grapes grown around them.

Hermitage, the northern Rhône’s most revered red, is a meaty Syrah, with buckets of blackberry and black cherry fruit flavors, tannin and even minerals. Côte-Rôtie is often more aromatic than Hermitage—especially in Syrah’s famed aroma of black pepper—and increasingly shares Hermitage’s fame.

St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage from good producers can sport coffee-like, peppery aromas and sweet fruit, but can be disappointingly light from second-tier winemakers. The reason lies in the expansive vineyards in these two appellations and their richer soils.

Cornas (cor-nahss) is often the darkest of all Rhône Syrahs, dense, brambly in the way of a rich Zinfandel, and leathery. It isn’t brutish, but it lacks the spine-tingling thrill of Hermitage.

Syrah is also planted in the southern Rhône, although it is no king there as it is in the north. Most of the time, it functions as a decidedly junior partner to Grenache and Mourvèdre in wines such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Côtes du Rhône.

Plantings of Syrah also pepper the appellations of the Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence and the Midi.

Australia
Down Under, Syrah becomes Shiraz (always pronounced sheh-RAZZ). Plantings in the Hunter and Barossa valleys date to the mid-1800s and have gone from there. Shiraz is now Australia’s most widely planted red wine grape.

The ubiquitous plantings allow for styles from light and fruity (filling those famed Australian-invented bag-in-boxes) to the rich, juicy, amazingly dense but seductive Syrahs of Coonawarra, the Hunter and Barossa. Not to mention Australia’s most famed and prized red, Penfolds’ Grange Hermitage.

Shiraz also makes very passable ports in Australia, and has a cult following for its sparkling versions. That’s right, bubbly Shiraz.

California and Elsewhere
Generally, but not exclusively, called Syrah by Californians, the grape is in huge vogue. Some Syrah are intense and brooding; some, fruit-forward and juicy. As in France, Syrah also figures in many a red wine blend.

What is called Petite Sirah in California is, in fact, the grape Durif (named after a French scientist). That said, Petite Sirah has its own uncompromising following.

Plantings of Syrah continue apace in Washington State (in a couple of years, Syrah will be as ubiquitous there as Merlot), and notably in Argentina, Chile and South Africa.

Flavors and Food
French Syrah begins life with aromas and tastes of black fruits—blackberries, black raspberries, black currants and black cherries—then develops notes of leather, pepper, game, smoke, chocolate or tobacco. A similar profile marks Australian Shiraz and American Syrah, though in a more opulent, even creamy, way (and ratchet up the chocolate and spice).

Food flavors, consequently, ought to be as full-on as the wine. Smoky hints in Syrah/Shiraz make it a great match for barbecued or grilled foods.

The big boys can handle venison, beef, bison, lamb and game. Lighter, fruitier versions work well with fowl (especially turkey) and veal or pork,

Semi-firm cheeses such as Cheddar, Gouda or Jarlsberg are good matches for Syrah, whether stout or medium-bodied.