Wine of South Africa

Along with Australia and the Americas, South Africa can correctly be thought of as a “New World” wine country (as distinct from “Old World” wine countries such as France or Germany).

But as a member of the New World group, South Africa’s wine roots are very old. The first governor of the Cape, Jan van Riebeeck, made South Africa’s first wine in 1659—40 years before California would plant its first vines and 130 years before Australia and New Zealand.

But van Riebeeck and his fellow Dutch were (not surprisingly) poor winemakers. For instance, they used oak vats that previously had brined meat. In 1680, French Huguenots began to settle in South Africa and brought with them their superior winemaking skills—and turned around South African wine.

So far, so good. Two centuries later, South African wines all but ceased to be made. In 1861, its principle market, Britain, collapsed when England resolved its difficulties with France. In 1896, the plant louse phylloxera began to lay waste its vineyards. And in 1899, the Anglo-Boer war broke out.

It wasn’t until 1918 and the establishment of the KWV cooperative that South Africa organized its remaining winemaking strengths. Indeed, cooperatives are the country’s main method of producing wine.

Photo by Dan Meyers on unsplash.com

Wine producers
Three types of wineries can exist in South Africa:

• estate wineries, that can make wine only from grapes grown on their own land;

• co-operatives, that process the grapes of their farmer member shareholders into wine and which press about 80% of the country’s total grape harvest;

• independent cellars and wholesalers who buy both grapes and wine (or use grapes from their own vineyards), and make wine for bottling under their brand names.

Climate
At the 34th latitude south, South Africa enjoys a Mediterranean-like climate of warm summers and cool, wet winters. Most of its vineyard areas are aligned in a sleepy C along the country’s western coast, none more than 50 kilometers from the sea, with Cape Town both the geographical and titular center.

The icy Benguela Current flows from Antarctica up the western coast of Africa and has the effect of cooling many a South African summer day.

As in the United States and Australia, research continues in order to better match specific soils and terroirs with specific grape varieties.

Regions
Worcester: South Africa’s biggest wine-producing district, producing nearly 25% of the country’s wine and spirits. An hour’s drive from Cape Town, the town of Worcester is home to the KWV Brandy Cellar, the largest of its kind in the world. The area is known for its Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay.

Olifants River: Named by Dutch explorers for a herd of 300 elephants spotted on its banks. Winemaking here goes back more than 200 years. It boasts the country’s highest cellar—3,770 feet above sea level.

Stellenbosch: The center of the country’s winemaking for more than 300 years. Sheltered from the sea by mountains of the same name, it is known for its reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinotage and Shiraz.

Paarl: After rains, Paarl Mountain’s distinctive granite boulders glisten like pearls—hence the name. The home to KWV cellars, one of the largest wineries in the world. The area is most favourable to Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage and Chenin Blanc.

Franschhoek: Means “French glen or corner,” this area first was settled by French Huguenots. Most of the farms and wine estates have French-sounding names. Chenin Blanc and Pinotage grow well here.

Grapes
One of the effects of the long-standing political isolation of the country is that the wine industry evolved in a more independent manner. Some of the best-known wines of South Africa traditionally have been made from Pinotage and Cape Riesling, varieties rarely grown outside the country.

Only in the last few years has South Africa begun to join the worldwide trend to Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

In 1925, professor Abraham Perold of the University of Cape Town crossed Pinot Noir with Cinsaut (called Hermitage), thereby creating South Africa’s own grape variety, Pinotage. It produces straightforward, even rustic, reds with tastes of both red and black fruits, spice and clove.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot plantings have increased and are the basis for Bordeaux blends.

Among white grapes, Chardonnay is making the most inroads. It is often made in an oaky, “international” style.

More than a quarter of South African vineyards are planted with Chenin Blanc, there called Steen. It produces dry, semi-dry and sparkling wines that are very popular throughout the country.