WINES OF OREGON

One reason above all explains why Burgundy produces such stellar Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—its marginal climate. Even if Burgundy’s singular and prized soils could be transferred to a warmer winemaking area, its wines would never be the same.

For a similar reason, Oregon produces Pinot Noir that makes even Burgundians turn their heads. Fewer grape-growing regions in the United States suffer from such chilly, damp, erratic weather where, year after year, harvests are as chancy as a roulette wheel.

Such weather is dangerous for grapes, no doubt, but it also marks the difference between great and middling Pinot Noir. A cool climate not only means that Pinot Noir vines struggle—always a good thing for grape vines—but also, that their grapes ripen slowly and methodically, developing mature flavors and pigments, something that they simply cannot do when their environment is generous.

Such climate also explains the excellence of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Gris—the latter, the white wine success for the state in the past 20 years. Oregon’s is a perfect climate for these white wine grapes: fruit flavors mature, acidity attains equilibrium, everyone is happy.

Areas
Oregon boasts three growing areas that excel in the production of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris: the valleys Willamette, Umpqua and Rogue (a coincidental but spot-on name for a valley—and state—that hosted the band of ex-hippies, college dropouts and counterculture loons who jump-started Oregon’s modern winemaking).

Oregon’s paramount appellation, The Willamette [will-AM-et] Valley, runs south of Portland for about 100 miles. In it flourish grapevines, to be sure, alongside the state’s famed filbert and Christmas tree orchards. The Willamette is the coolest grape growing area of Oregon—and therefore the site of its best Pinot Noir.

The Umpqua and Rogue valleys lie to the south of the Willamette and, in some places, are warm enough for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Two final viticultural areas lie in east-central Oregon, just south of (and shared by) Washington State: the Columbia Valley and Walla Walla. As in their northern neighbor, some Cabernet and Merlot are also raised here.

Label laws
Oregon’s wine laws are a reflection of its predilection for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, two grapes that make wine best when each is bottled solo, unblended (as in Burgundy).

In Oregon, a wine must contain 90% of the grape named on the label (except for Cabernet Sauvignon, which takes well to blending, in which case the law allows for a minimum of 75%). In most other states, 75% is the allowed minimum for all grape varieties.

Pinot Noir
Indisputably, portions of Oregon’s vineyard areas resemble Burgundy—in rainfall, daily temperatures and sunlight. These statistics were the prime reason adventuring winemakers first came to Oregon to plant Pinot Noir. The question always remains, though, “Is Oregon Pinot Noir like Burgundian Pinot Noir?”

Which is the wrong question. (It would be as fair to ask “Does Burgundy’s Pinot Noir resemble Oregon’s?”) Oregon Pinot Noir is its own Pinot Noir—replete with aromas and tastes of forest mushrooms, blackberry, blueberry and ripe strawberry. It is refined and supple and delicate. The truest test is that you know it’s Pinot Noir when you taste it.

Oregon winemakers have learned, over the years, which clones, winemaking practices, oak and blending regimens work best for their Pinot Noir.

Pinot Gris
See how Alsace Pinot Gris and Italian Pinot Grigio can differ a great deal—even though they are the same grape? Some Italian Pinot Grigios approach the concentration and verve of the Pinot Gris from Alsace, but, alas, so very few do. It all depends on place and pride. In Alsace, they’ve got the right place—and they know what to do with it. (In fairness, so do some Italians.)

The Alsatian story is Oregon’s, producer of some of the best Pinot Gris made in the United States. The cool climate is perfect, yields are kept low, winemakers leave the wine to make itself plainly and unadorned.

Eats
One of the great American food and wine matches is Pacific salmon and Oregon Pinot Noir. One of the great American food and wine matches is Pacific salmon and Oregon Pinot Gris.

Take your pick.