CUISINE BASICS, MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN CUISINE BASICS, MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN

CORNING BEEF

To “corn” a cut of meat means to preserve it in salt or heavily salted brine. (A “corn” of salt used to mean what we term “a grain of salt,” hence “corned beef.) The process is simple, although time-consuming, and was used by shippers of beef, and other meats, from Europe to the New World.

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CUISINE BASICS, CHICKEN WILLIAM STJOHN CUISINE BASICS, CHICKEN WILLIAM STJOHN

TO CONFIT

French cooks confit—cook very, very slowly in a bucket of fat—a lot more than just duck legs, the one food we think of as confit. (It is both a verb and a noun; the second syllable is pronounced “fee”; the word means “conserved.”)

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CUISINE BASICS, CHICKEN WILLIAM STJOHN CUISINE BASICS, CHICKEN WILLIAM STJOHN

CUTTING UP FOWL

There’s one really good reason to cut up a whole chicken: it’s always a lot cheaper to buy a whole bird than already cut-up pieces like thighs or breasts. You also can do this with duck or goose and, if you’re strong enough, with a whole turkey.

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CUISINE BASICS, MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN CUISINE BASICS, MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN

BUTTERFLYING MEAT

“Butterflying” the piece of meat, before it is either roasted or grilled, gives it a flatter profile and allows for more even cooking. It also guarantees a crisper exterior or skin, and makes for easier carving and serving when cooked.

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MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN MEAT WILLIAM STJOHN

ODD CUTS OF MEAT

Guanciale—cured fresh pork jowl—is merely one “odd” cut of meat. Photo from Popo Le Chien.

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