ST.-ESTÈPHE

Photo from Angell Guillèn on unsplash

With 3,500 acres under vine and 155 estates, St.-Estèphe is the largest of the six Médoc communal appellations—although it also is the least prestigious.  

It has the fewest of the peninsula’s classified châteaux (a mere five), although it abounds in crus bourgeois, many of which increasingly turn out splendid wine. Notable among these are Haut-Marbuzet, Meyney and Les Ormes de Pez. 

The Romans planted vines in St.-Estèphe, although the area did not flower commercially until the 18th century and the establishment of most of the well-known châteaux. 

The gravelly soil is typical of the Médoc. However, St.-Estèphe boasts more variation in soil than its southerly neighbors, due mostly to the undulating hills that distinguish it from the flatter Médoc as a whole. Also, more clay outcrops here and overlays a thick substrate of limestone. 

Such soil drains vineyards of their moisture more slowly than gravel, and grapes retain higher acidity and develop thicker skins. As a result, St.-Estèphe’s wines are huskier and more broad-shouldered than wines made in the lighter, well-drained soils farmed elsewhere in the Médoc.  

Because of these water-retaining soils, the vines of St.-Estèphe handle hot vintages better than other Médoc vineyards. But just so, they also under-perform in wet, rain-slogged years. 

The traditional image of the wines of St.-Estèphe has them austere, tannic and in need of long bottle age—an image bolstered by noting that plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon are the highest of the Médoc. That image has changed in recent years, however, due both to modern winemaking (which turns out more accessible wines) and greater use of the plusher, less tannic grape, Merlot. 

Because of the proliferation of strong crus bourgeois properties, the paucity of classified growths, and the ability of its vineyards to manage off or difficult years, St.-Estèphe is Bordeaux’s “bargain basement” commune.  

Visiting St.-Estèphe
St.-Estèphe is the last major wine commune in the Médoc as you drive north on the main wine road (D2) from the city of Bordeaux. It also may be the prettiest, especially because you finally leave behind the sight of the enormous oil refinery that looms over Pauillac.  

However, a small road (D2 E2) leads along the coast of the Gironde estuary from north of the refinery to St.-Estèphe’s old harbor of Port de la Chapelle. It is a quaint drive and is the only place where you can see vineyards from the aspect of the shore. 

The village of St.-Estèphe is surrounded by small hamlets, such as Pez, Marbuzet and Cos (the “s” is pronounced), that have given their names to well-known châteaux. The village sports the only Baroque church in the Médoc, the tower of which is said to resemble a wine bottle. Facing the church is the Maison du Vin (telephone 05.56.59.30.59) where you may sample and purchase many of the wines made from the commune’s extensive vineyards. 

From the first of July until mid-September, you may visit the local co-operative, the Marquis de St.-Estèphe.