THE MÉDOC
If you envision the whole of Bordeaux as an outstretched right hand, the Médoc would be the thumb—50 miles long, the Atlantic Ocean to its west side and the Gironde estuary to its right. (The word “Médoc” derives from Latin, pagus medulorum, “the land in the middle.”)
The southern two-thirds of the Médoc is called the Haut-Médoc and within it lie most of the famed châteaux of Bordeaux, set in the communes of Margaux, St.-Julien, Pauillac, and St.-Estèphe. (Though haut means “high,” here it refers to height above sea level, not northernmost.)
Two additional communes are important to Médoc winemaking, Moulis-en-Médoc and Listrac- Médoc.
Situation
Contrasted with the clay-heavy and cooler soils in St.-Emilion and Pomerol across the Gironde, the soils of the Médoc are renowned for their gravelly or sandy, loose constitution.
Such soils drain well and retain a modicum of heat from day through night. They also are particularly suited to Cabernet Sauvignon, the premier grape of the region, predominant in the blends of most Médoc châteaux.
The 45-degree latitude traverses the Médoc and, combined with the presence of so much water, explains the area’s relatively humid, warm, airy, sunny, temperate, and propitious climate.
Grapes
Four grapes constitute the assemblage of most Médoc châteaux. Cabernet Sauvignon, the backbone, brings fruitiness and structure to blends; Merlot, softness and finesse. Cabernet Franc has brightness of color and a rich bouquet. Finally, small amounts of Petit Verdot can contribute body and color. (Malbec and Carmenère are found less and less.)
SUBREGIONS
Médoc: Any wine made anywhere in the Médoc may use the appellation Médoc, although there also exists, at the northernmost tip of the Médoc as a whole, a very large area expressly (also confusingly) called the Médoc, wines from which must carry the appellation. It significantly takes up 1/3 of all Médoc vineyards.
Haut-Médoc: As its name indicates, this strip of vineyard area sits high up from the Gironde, like a crest of a long hill, behind the communes that line up along the estuary itself. The Haut-Médoc comprises about 30 percent of the Médoc as a whole—and dozens upon dozens of châteaux. Its wines are perfect examples of Bordeaux red: elegant, not overwhelmingly powerful, harmonious, and fine.
Margaux: Quite the celebrated commune, Margaux wines are noted for their supple delicacy, elegance, and fruity bouquets. That said, the meager soils also confer on them ample tannin for longevity. Of 80 properties, 21 are classified growths* and together produce 60 percent of Margaux’s production.
St.-Julien: Eleven of its 26 estates are classified and together produce 80 percent of the commune’s wine. The constancy of soil gives St.-Julien’s reds a consistency of style—a delicious alliance of a tender, delicate bouquet and sturdy constitution. The combination makes for wines of great precision.
Pauillac [POY-yack]: A large and diverse commune and home to three of the five First Growths*, whose wines are notable for combining power with finesse. Ample tannin, red fruit flavors, and aromas—sometimes a cedary note—and richness and complexity all conspire to make for reds that reward careful aging.
St.-Estèphe: The heavier soils here give its wines a stiffness, robustness, and intensity of character. Rich in both character and tannin, St.-Estèphe wines also age well, becoming especially aromatic and fine with time. Although estates tend to use the softener Merlot, it nonetheless renders densely chewy wines.
Moulis-en Médoc & Listrac-Médoc: These two oft-overlooked Médoc appellations are a bargain hunter’s dream. Set back from the Gironde, the heavier soils tend to render wines that are somewhat more coarsely textured than those from other Médoc communes, although a bright elegance sneaks through in several labels.
The Médoc and dinner
In truth, Bordeaux's cooking, even though it is French, is very plain. And the better food and wine matches with Médoc wine are also simple and straightforward. A classic marriage is a roast leg of lamb (or roast beef) and either a Pauillac or St.-Julien (although do not refuse either a Margaux or St.-Estèphe). Pauillac is especially renowned for its lamb, suckled solely on its mother’s milk.
Pork is served on many a Médoc table (notably the grenier médocain, a “sausage” of highly peppered pork snout encased in its own stomach). Goat cheese and forest mushrooms also adorn the table, as do an array of shellfish and seafood from both the estuary and the Atlantic.
* In 1855, 60 châteaux in the Médoc (and one in Graves) were classified or ranked into “growths” (crus, in French), from First to Fifth Growths.